CEPHALONIA Ionian islands.

The idiosyncratic island.

Cephalonia is one of Greece's largest islands, and, having largely escaped the Turkish occupation, has a proud consciousness of its identity as one of the earliest outposts of modern Greek civilisation under the Venetian and later British Empires. Variously known as Kefalonia and Kefallinia, the inhabitants are widely (and fondly) regarded by the rest of Greece as being slightly mad, and, like its tiny neighbour, Ithaca, it has always looked outward. Education was always the way out of hardship. Even in 1792 every village on Ithaca had a primary school for both boys and girls. In these two islands 90% of the population were educated years before the rest of Greece.

There were the Libro d'Oro noble families (Venetian approved) and the rest. Children of society went to schools and universities in Europe. The island came to be known for its doctors, lawyers, clerics, politicians, musicians, writers, and soldiers, as well as its sea-farers. You will feel heritage in the air for these Ionian islands have always had class and style.

Cephalonia is handsome and grand, with a colour scheme of intense blues, golds and greens. Most of the island was rebuilt after the massive earthquake of 1953. Healing scars and starting over is what the place and the people are all about and it has now become comfortable and prosperous again. Little of the previous elegance of Venetian, French and British public buildings and manor houses sadly remains. You have to imagine the opulent bustle at the premiere in 1859 at the newly built theatre in Argostoli - La Traviata performed by the La Fenice Opera from Venice, but the tastes and sounds of the past are present in the local cuisine, appellation of origin awarded wines, Italianate dialect, bands, melodic music and song.

It is achingly photogenic, and was the real star of the movie version of “Captain Corelli's Mandolin”. The landscape is one of dramatic splendour with forest-clad mountains and hidden valleys, impressive limestone cliffs and caves, spacious bays of electric-blue waters, blinding white beaches, sparkling small coves reached by narrow roads. The exquisite white crescent of Myrtos is one of the most famous and photographed beaches in all Greece. Castles sit over high slopes of rolling vineyards, and lower groves of heady scented citrus and ordered olive groves. The south of the island is more developed, the north is wilder, thickly forested with cypresses, and stars the very picturesque and cool village of Fiscardo; the jewel in the tourist crown since the 1970s. It was discovered a few years ago by the likes of Cruise, Spielberg, Hanks, Madonna. Serious international expensive sea- craft on display. The little picture-postcard port is a portrait-in-miniature of Cephalonia's history - with Roman sarcophagi, a ruined Byzantine church, a Venetian light-house, and a British-built one.

The legendary forest of Mount Ainos; now a national park and home to the Abies Cephalonicus fir tree, deer, wild horses, many rare species of flowers (the autumn flowering snowflake), and potent medicinal mountain herbs. Trails are only now really organized for walkers, botanists and ornithologists. Views from the summit are phenomenal.

Cephalonia offers something for everyone; watersports and tavernas on the beaches of the south, tiny exquisite pebbly coves to yourselves Archeological reamins from every period of Cephalonia's 3,000 year history (Cephalonia claims, wrongly, to be the home of Odysseus). There are mountains with alpine forests to cool off in, cliffs, museums, Hellenistic and Mycenaean ruins, Byzantine churches, monasteries, a medieval castle, sophisticated wineries, jaw-dropping views on the corniche road to Fiscardo, caves with stalagmites and stalagtites, an underground lake to go boating on, and lastly, Assos, another ravishing Cephalonian village, on an isthmus leading to a Venetian fortress.

Best For

An amazingly varied island. Watersports, cultural activities, excursions, calm summer seas, wonderful swimming, and some magnificent beaches and lanscapes. Easy access from many international airports via charter flights.

Worst For

Lack of distinguished architecture. Local taste has deteriorated as wealth increases. You need to drive quite long distances to get the most out of this large island. Those with teenagers wanting night life should choose locations carefully if they are not prepared to be chauffeurs every night.

Would Suit

Restless husbands bored of the beach, active children, sporty types, and history buffs; Barbarossa the pirate, and Lord Byron are just two of many who stopped here.

Would Not Suit

Those wanting a hot, sexy Aegean scene like Mykonos, or a cool vibe like Hydra. Cephalonia has little snob-appeal, and while it is great for families, there is very little that is hip of chic

Don't Miss

The truly amazing beach of Myrtos, where chalk white meets glittering turquoise and sapphire. The fabulous ecclesiastical Museum at the Convent of Aghios Andreas. Walking across the causeway to the Assos castle and lobster at a waterfornt taverna afterwards. Roman mosaics at Skala. Nerar Sami are the underground lake of Melissani where a boatman will row you around the mysterious lake, and neighbouring Dragonata Cave - an easy day that children love. St George's Castle, Tzanata beehive Mycenaean tomb discovered in 1991. Eat at Dendrinos Taverna in Agia Efimia (great fish and wine-all local), Beautiful and chic Fiskardo in the north, with the legendary Tassia's (star cook for the stars and star prices). Try to find the little rock hewn chapel of Aghia Barbara.

For eating, try Xiropotamo in Aghia Efimia and the fish taverna "Kalyva tou Psarou" open only for lunch - tel 27710 85105).

The hidden beaches of Platia Ammos, Dafnoudi (park at the Antipata-Erissou junction just before Fiskardo, then walk 15 minutes down to the beach through the cypress grove to a fabulous beach.) Koroni with its tiny, chilled beach bar at sunset, Sisia and Avythos, all on the south coast.

Activities

All watersports (parakiting etc etc), beach sports, tennis, go-karting, trail walking, wine tours (Gentilini at Minies, Calligas in the Omala valley, Metaxa in the south) nature walking (Lourdata's microclimate/tropical plants), Corgialenios Museum's riveting visual entry into the life of the island 150 years ago - rich and varied. Riding from Cony's farm near Sami. (Bavarian Riding Stables - tel 6977 533203)

Scuba diving from Fiskardo, Aghia Efthimia or Skala (www.aquatic,gr, tel 26740 62006 and 6944 86701)

Children love the cave of Dragonata and the lake of Melissani.

High Season

Many Greek vacationers as well as from overseas. But the island's size means it can comfortably absorb them.

Low season

The amazing lushness of the island is owed to the relatively long, wet winters, so off season weather can be disapppointing. Explore the villages of the Livatho and the flowers and the bird life of Mount Aenos - woodpeckers, rare owls, and magnificent birds of prey such as griffon vultures, golden eagles, buzzards and Eleanora's falcons all inhabit the heights).