Koufonissia, Lesser Cyclades

The Private Island.

Koufonissia means “the hollow islands” in Greek - two low little islands of a friable rock have had their coastlines nibbled away by the wind and waves to form wonderful beaches and caves and strange rock formations. Not easy to get to, not much to do - this is the Cyclades as they were 50 years ago. We love it.

Best for

Its low cliff-girt shore honeycombed with caves and inlets and sandy beaches with pale blue lagoon like water. The very pretty coastal path that goes round 2/3rds of the island. Very good sea food and local produce from next door Naxos, Greece's organic larder.

Worst for

No shops, no car rental, no roads other than the main one, no water sports, no fast way to get anywhere, not much of anything. We weren't sure though whether to put this in the "Best for" column or the "Worst for" column.... Two families run the place, and have married into eachother, so best not to fall out with them.

Would suit

Temporary or part-time drop-outs, wealthier hippies wanting to chill and eat lobster, people needing to fill up on light for the dark winter ahead, young adults can have a surprising amount of fun here as summer produces a crop of bars and tavernas and beach scenes. To Skoleio is a fun bar, as is Scirocco. Children can roam free, and adore the shallow, warm blue water and golden sands - and it only takes 15 minutes to walk from one end of the island to the other.

Would not suit

People in a hurry, those wanting quick and easy access to Athens, water sport fanatics - nothing organised here - restless explorers and loners - you can't always find a spot to yourself on an island this small in high season.

Don't miss

The full moon party on Pori beach, and the great lunch at Kalofengo Taverna on the beach. A cafe there also has cool music and you can watch the sunset (and rise - it is a very flat island). Lobster Makaroni at Nikitouri's tavern in the village.

Activities

Cliff climbing and diving off them into the sea, snorkelling, eating, sleeping... Bicyling or walking around the pretty coastal path. You can take a boat trip to Koufonissia's twin island of Kato Koufonissi which has some more sandy beaches and is less crowded in summer. You can also take Prassinos' caiki over to Naxos. The ancient Holy Isle of Keros, the source of the finest Cycladic figurines and the ancient centre of a mysterious, mother-goddess based religion, broods silently just opposite - you can swim there but no-one is allowed to set foot on it.

High season

Surprisingly full, though limited by the lack of accommodation, as the island has become fashionable with wealthy young Greeks. The island has more than its fair share of grand yachts that come in to play - Hence the great lobster dishes on the menus..

Low Season

You will be treated as King, and will get to know the two families who run the island very well.

---