SYROS - Central Cyclades.

Grandeur and nostalgia

Commercial, cultural and administrative capital of the Cyclades, Syros has a rolling history of prosperity and decline. Ermoupolis, named after Hermes god of commerce, is a gem; two peaks rising from the natural harbor, with 19th century neo-classical homes piling up to the top of each, where perches a Catholic church on one peak, that serves the catholic community that dates back to the time of the Crusaders, and an Orthodox on the other. The grand mansions, marble lanes, pastel colours and air of past grandeur, lend Ermoupolis a stately elegance all of its own. If you clip-clop along the street in the evening in a horse-drawn carriage, and see the palm-trees silhouetted against the lavender evening sky with the street lights softly twinkling across the water, you can feel the grandeur that used to be Syros. The town has so much to intrigue you with - from grandiose civic buildings (the extravagant Town Hall built by Ernst Schiller (1876), the Apollo Theatre (1864) a copy of Milan's La Scala Opera House, the aristocratic Hellas Club), and magnificent cathedrals- both Catholic ( French Capuchins and Jesuits in the Middle Ages) on one hill of the town, and the Orthodox, in the district of Vrondado, on the opposite hill. There are captain's mansions converted into bijoux hotels, elegant facades and coffee houses, a waterfront bustling with tiny sardine- grill shops, chandlers and agencies, while the parallel street behind has all the contemporary affluent businesses on a par with anything you may find in Athens. In the 19th century, it was Greece's leading port, industrial and ship-building centre and a major coaling station for trans- Europe/Orient business via steamship. The best preserved neoclassic city in Greece, it has held its big city feel from the time when it was a hub of theatres, literary circles and cultural associations. Its old mansions and factories testify to an affluence that other islands never enjoyed before the advent of tourism. It has a huge natural harbour and was once “the Manchester of Greece”, with trans-shipments and exports of everything from grain, cotton and silk textiles, glass, lead-shot, paints, even hats. Once steam was replaced by oil to power ships, there was no need for coal bunkering and the island's major business declined. It was no longer the main stopover in the Eastern Mediterranean. However, the first bourgeoisie of newly liberated Greece (1821-1830) was progressive and refined, patrons of the arts and cosmopolitan.

This is not your stereotypical Aegean white and blue island. It does have a northern half of hills terraced with traditional stone walls to contain the soil from winter rains' erosion, fabulous remote beaches, and important archaeological settlements (Kastri - proto-cycladic fortified site) (Halandriani - a Keros/Syros culture 2800 - 2300BC cemetery). There are also farmsteads which sell their famous San Michaeli hard-cheese, and thyme-honey. There are fine sand beaches in the south and west at Foinikas and Galissas, where some excellent tavernas serve surprisingly sophisticated food in a simple, beach setting, under the shade of tamarisk trees, and a charming little harbour resort at Kini - a horseshoe-shaped bay with 2 good sandy beaches, some excellent fish tavernas, and a great place for sharing the sunset with an ouzo.

Best for

The town of Ermoupolis, the best Loukoumi (Turkish delight) in Greece, and famous pastries.

Worst for

One of the busiest connecting ferry points in all the Cyclades; early, researched arrangements are advised. The airport also can be swamped at peak periods.

Would suit

Those who would be happy to combine stunning neoclassical frescoes, a cappuchino with a bandstand view, a mass at a tiny nunnery atop Ano Syra, a world class opera performance, industrial working museums, eco-farms, and a remote paradise beach.

Would not suit

those wishing organized beach-run holidays and an international beach scene.

Don't Miss

A performance at the newly restored Apollo Theatre during Peter Tiboris' annual short season of classical music/opera. (early July). Roman + Byzantine rock inscriptions on Grammata beach left by grateful sailors. A visit to the Industrial Museum in Ermoupolis in the old Kasimantis paintworks - fascinating detail of the sophistication of the works then,

A peek at the boat repair yards for the traditional wooden caiques which come from all over Greece for tender loving maintenance.

An evening volta (stroll) around the grand main square of town, to taste “the best lemon ice” as described by French traveller, Theophile Gaultier, in the 1830s, and show off your “Paris couture and hats”. The icon painted by young El Greco while he was still Domenikos Theotokopoulos now in the Church of the Annunciation. The Archaeology Museum, and take a look at the Orthodox Cemetery where marble statues pine over wealthy shipping magnates lying in grand mausoleums.

Activities

Mostly of your own making. Walks and treks to wildernesses of ancient sites, scrambles to remote beaches and chapels etc. The organized beaches of Galissas and Foinikas have watersports, but it is not an island of advanced entertainments.

High Season

The 'summer resorts' of the grand merchant families were at Dellagrazia and Chroussa. Their nearby beaches are always popular. Busy shipping traffic. Many Greek family visitors. Good healthy food all over the island - no MacDonalds/Starbucks.

Low Season

walking, sampling the local specialities at their source (San Michaeli cheese, honey, roast suckling pig ( the annual- fattened pig is common in each Cyclades farmstead as the main source of meat) - visiting the eco-farm at Kyperousas which pioneered sun-dried tomatoes and the first health-friendly store in the islands, Prekas, to see the gathering of rose-petals which flavour the island's sweet speciality - loukoum. (This was world famous from the last century).