Passport to a rather damp paradise

By Ileana von Hirsch, February 22nd 2011

Five Star Greece  on the road

I finally made the ferry to Ithaca – how one’s spirits lift on a boat trip – the white spray flies up from the bows, foam spreading like cream across the waves. The weather is an almost balmy 18 degrees, and all the annoyances of travel disappear, such as why a country with a minimal mastery of bureaucracy would want to introduce passport checks for ferry passengers. Two black-swaddled nuns have not brought their passports and wail to the ferry girl, “but no-one told us!” “Never mind, my Golden Ones” she replies, “ I am telling you now, remember next time” and waves them aboard. I suppose it is still easier than getting into the US if you are an alien, and no-one at the US passport control calls you their Golden One and waves you through….. I ring some Greek friends who are at a weekend party on Evvia ( at our villa Evvia 1C which is a great all year entertaining venue!) to share this new absurdity with them, but instead of laughing, they reply, wondering at my stupidity, “But of course, how else do you know who drowns when the ferry sinks? Finally something sensible the government has done”.
It must be because I am only half –Greek…

Kephalonia looms ahead, the sea is translucent and limpid around the rocks, and coils of fragrant woodsmoke from the bonfires of olive prunings dot the green slopes. Life is fine.

About the author

Ileana von Hirsch

Ileana lives in London, is married to a Bavarian, and comes from an old shipping family from the Greek island of Ithaca. ileana@fivestargreece.com

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