The problem with the new Amanzoe hotel

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The real problem with the Amanzoe hotel in the Argolid hills near Porto Heli, the huge elephant  in the room, the glaring flaw that no-one wants to mention, is that it renders you completely incapable of dealing with the outside world, unfit for anything that has not been filtered through the prism of Aman sensibility, training and  polishing.

In the Aman world,  lofty halls and soaring columns reflect in pools of cool water, artfully placed cypresses wave gently across the sky, the breakfast eggs have been hand-picked by  Chef Boutsalis from Mr Paschalis’ chicken coop in the farm in nearby Fourni,  mountain tea has been spiked with cardamom and herbs from the mountain behind,  and lavender, thyme, cystus and white oleanders bloom quietly on all roof tops and path verges.  Angels glide around silently, dispensing chilled towels, cold drinks, and smiles, yoga mats in the yoga platform  are placed to face the wonderful views. 

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Lots of Yachts… Poros Yacht Show 2013

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So  this year’s Poros Yacht show, which  the international yacht brokers hit for three days on their way from the show in Genoa to the Gulet show in Marmaris, happened to fall on Greek Easter. This meant that many of the yachts that usually show here were out on charter or lying at anchor outside some peaceful beach while their  owners  slept off the after effects of too much Paschal lamb and wine. The silver lining  (there is always one in my world,) is that I had time to look at smaller vessels that can be tacked on to villas as day boats or taken by honeymooners, and spend more time on the stars like the schooner Iraklis with its lovely lines and gleaming wood, the slick  Duke and the  chic Ouranos. Tasting the chef’s mezze, finding out from Captains where their favorite bays and beaches are,  hearing why the engineer left,  and most importantly  gossiping with other brokers – invaluable information gets passed around along with the jugs  of mojitos as you steal 10 minutes to sit on a shady deck and test the attentiveness of the stewards…

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The Cyclades, then and now…

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” The mainland of Greece has been overrun by barbarian tribes; the Ionian Islands have been thoroughly Italianised; Greeks in Asia Minor and the islands adjacent to the coast have been swamped by Islamism; yet the Cyclades have remained ore or less as they were, thanks to their  insignificance.”

Thus J. Theodore Bent, Philhellene and anthropologist, in “Island Hopping in the Cyclades”  in 1885

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Health and Safety on Paros

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Our Paros concierge,   the beautiful Vangelis of the azure eyes (see previous blogpost) is very glum.  He has been forced, at the cost of 70 euros per person, to take his entire office and spend the whole of this glorious Saturday afternoon in a seminar on Health and Safety in the Workplace. Poor Greece, as if it did not have enough woes…

As the Greek island  workplace is often the back of a motorbike without a helmet clutching a mobile phone in one hand, a coffee between the knees and a cigarette hanging out of the corner of the mouth while driving the wrong side of the road round a blind corner, I wonder where the seminar speakers will start. Especially if the Troika have laid out the guidelines….    “Please put out your cigarettes, ladies and gentlemen, no, NOT in your coffee, and yes, you have to get off your motorbike…”

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Athens in the springtime, Chanel & the Amanzoe

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Like a prisoner let out on compassionate leave for a week, I practically cried with joy when I stepped out of Eleftheriou Venizelou airport and saw the sun, blue sky and a felt a warm breeze  on my cheek.  (I live in London.)  Athens in the spring has a unique smell  of orange blossom, wisteria,  car fumes,  and cigarette smoke – Eau d’Athenes for men, with rich, dark  top notes of coffee and motor-bike helmet.

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The Emir of Qatar buys six Greek islands

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Greek Real Estate received a welcome boost yesterday as 6 of the Echinades islands off Ithaca, in the Ionian sea, were sold  to the Emir of Qatar.  The ex- husband of a cousin of mine was one of the owners, so congratulations to him, and I was pleased to read the very forthright comments from the mayor of Ithaca in today’s  Guardian on the out-dated size restrictions imposed by the planning department on new building. We wish the Emir success in helping the Greek government amend these unhelpful rules.

The Ionian has previously been targeted by Greek shipowners wanting to add to their property portfolio, and build estates in these loveliest of Greek islands, and Russians enamoured  the green and lush fertility of the islands,  so this is an interesting addition to the club.

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How to get to Koufonisia the fast way

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No excuse now not to join the cognoscenti and hipsters who have been enjoying their private Koufonisia for years, and basking in its inacccessibility.

We are very glad to see that next summer, from 17th June to the 15th September, there will be a fast Superjet boat everyday, from Mykonos to Koufonisi (except Sunday),  from Santorini to Koufonisi (except Saturday) and  from Koufonisi to Mykonos and to Santorini (except Sunday) .

This means that you can now fly directly from many international countries to Mykonos or Santorini and then arrive at Koufonisi by Superjet in just over an hour and a half. Guests from Milan for example can do the whole trip in 7 hours, while guests from London can do it in 8 hours.

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Happy Holidays!

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I can do no better than share with you this beautiful greeting I was sent from a young man in Northern Ethiopia, that topsy turvy country of miracles, famine,  and rock-hewn churches: It puts our “Season’s greetings” and  Santa Claus pictures to shame.

Dear my beloved family,

How are you and the Christmas season in Europe? Hope it is fine and you are waiting for its colorful celebration.

It is my pleasure to write these little lines full of best wishes on your Christmas and Happy New Year ,though I am not around in body , my spirit soar high to hand over my praising and thanks on your holidays. I hope that you will celebrate both in good mood & aspiring to make the coming year one of the years in which we all benefit from the virtues of your righteousness, I am extending my best wishes so that you may enjoy your holiday as best as possible.

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