July 17th
A shipowner friend arrived on his yacht yesterday – his newest toy, which is a Viking 45; small, smart, fast and sporty. Since the sea has been like a dusty mirror stretching all the way to Italy, we set off for the beautiful beach of Afales with its towering white cliffs and tiny round white pebbles. Captain Artemis watched us leave Skinos with misgivings as to our friend’s prowess as captain. I don’t believe in the evil eye, but within five minutes of our arriving at Afales, the anchor snapped in 15 metres of water, and we had to beg Captain Artemis to come out from Skinos. He arrived by speedboat, took one quick look around, a deep breath, and then disappeared under water for 5 minutes. We watched admiringly as he settled himself comfortably on the sea-bed, tied a knot around the broken anchor chain, tested it out, had a little rest, and t,hen floated back up. “All fixed” he said, adding balefully “and I am not coming out a second time…” and then sped back to Skinos.

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